Loco for Kokomo: How this Brooklyn Restaurant Practices Family Inclusion

The Black-owned restaurant Kokomo keeps family at the forefront of all its dishes.

When you step into Kokomo restaurant at 65 Kent Ave., you’re immediately greeted with a calming and sensual experience. The dim lights and rustic decor create a warm atmosphere, while the beautiful Williamsburg skyline offers breathtaking views against the crisp New York City air.

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Upon arrival, your stomach will pause for a moment to bask in the rich aromas of Asian and Caribbean fusion. The smell of their signature oxtail flatbread pizza baking in their stone pizza oven, or perhaps the spices of the delicately crafted Biang Biang rasta noodles, will tickle your nose and transport you to a mouthwatering oasis, unique from the surrounding restaurants in Williamsburg.

But behind the cleverly infused dishes lie not just two entrepreneurs, but a husband-and-wife duo, Kevol and Ria Graham, who put family at the heart of everything they do.

A Flavorful Approach

Opening during the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, the couple didn’t let the global crisis stop them from offering New Yorkers an authentic dining experience. Both of Caribbean heritage, Kokomo offers a variety of foods, expertly walking the thin line of authentic Caribbean and Asian cuisine with a hint of Americanized flavor and style, much like the melting pot that is the Big Apple.

“We knew that we wanted to represent our culture as well as our heritage through our food, but not neglecting the fact that we’re also both New Yorkers,” Ria explained when asked about the creation of the menu. “So when you look at Kokomo’s cuisine, you would see that it’s, it’s a true melting pot of not just what it means to be Caribbean, but also a New Yorker.”

The Grenadian and Trinidadian wife and mother came from a background of restaurant marketing before she met her now Jamaican husband, Kevol, a chef. The budding romance was the perfect recipe for a storm. After being presented with a unique event space multiple times, the couple decided to take it as a sign to start their own restaurant, thus giving birth to Kokomo.

“In the Caribbean, when you’re there in the islands, people are trying to feed you. They’re trying to make sure you’re trying all the different things they have to offer,” her husband Kevol echoed. “They’re excited about you trying their food. So we love to pour that same passion into our culinary cuisine, welcoming all different ethnicities and cultures that come into Kokomo because it is a place for everyone.”

The dimly lit space is effervescent with electric energy. You hear the chatter of patrons as they sit at the glowing tables, accompanied by menu options that speak to the culture of New York City, yet hold the flavors of Asian and Caribbean islands, dancing on your taste buds to create an exceptional experience.

kokomo brooklyn — Ria Graham and children

Family First

The couple’s commitment to inclusivity extends beyond their menu and hospitality; it’s woven into how they run their business. As parents, Ria and Kevol emphasize the importance of creating an environment that feels like home for every guest. “Sometimes kids will come into the restaurant with their families,” Ria explains. “We automatically send them fruits or fries and something to drink before the parents even order anything. It’s just the Caribbean way of doing things. We’re a family-owned restaurant, and we always want to stand by that.”

Like many, the couple experienced their own challenges when it came to parenting. “After we met, I quickly got pregnant, and we got married, and I quit my job. And I decided to be a stay-at-home mom, which didn’t last very long because it wasn’t really for me. I don’t think it’s for everybody. I knew that I wanted to be back in the workforce, but not necessarily working for someone,” Ria recalled. The pair would eventually open the restaurant, which many would say is similar to giving birth to another child.

The New York City food industry is one of the largest and most difficult to navigate across the country. From competing businesses to unexpected influxes and costs in ingredients and customers, the couple has its fair share of tough moments.

Balancing business and family life is no easy feat, but the couple has developed their own philosophy to make it work. “We learned that you can’t control everything. You’ll drive yourself crazy trying to. So we focus on rhythm, figuring out what needs our attention most and giving it our all in that season. That’s how we stay grounded as a family,” Kevol says.

The pair also brings their children into the entrepreneurial experience. Their three kids often visit the restaurant, watching their parents in action. That exposure has already inspired their oldest daughter to start a lemonade stand this past summer, a small but symbolic reflection of the family’s work ethic and creativity. “It’s beautiful to see them learning from what we do,” Ria said. “We want them to see that anything is possible when you work hard, stay grounded, and keep faith.”

The Kokomo Experience

Dining at Kokomo can easily transport one to a luxury island dining experience, akin to a mini-vacation in the heart of Brooklyn. The music is lively yet soothing, the lighting warm and romantic. Each dish tells a story—from the curry crab gyoza inspired by Trinidad’s curry crab and dumplings to the ackee-topped flatbreads that pay homage to Jamaica’s national dish. Even their creative rasta pasta flatbread, a fusion of jerk Alfredo and New York-style pizza, is a playful nod to the couple’s roots and their city.

Ria describes Kokomo as “electric.” From brunches filled with laughter and island beats to late-night dinners that feel like family gatherings, the restaurant thrives on community, connection, and joy.

As the holidays approach, Kokomo remains a go-to spot for Friendsgiving dinners, family outings, and festive celebrations. “We always say Kokomo is for everyone,” Ria shared. “No matter who you are or where you’re from, when you walk through our doors, you’re family.”

At its heart, Kokomo is more than a restaurant—it’s a reflection of love, culture, and resilience. It’s a space where family and flavor blend seamlessly, where every meal is served with warmth and intention. For the Grahams, it’s proof that when you mix heritage, community, and heart, you get something truly unforgettable.

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